Vegetarian Pasta-Making Workshop

Two doughs, two traditions

Fresh pasta falls into two broad families. Egg pasta, common in northern and central Italy, is rolled thin into ribbons and filled shapes. Semolina pasta, made only from durum wheat flour and water, is typical of the south: orecchiette from Puglia are the classic example. Egg pasta is vegetarian but not vegan, while semolina-and-water dough is naturally suitable for vegans.

Fillings and sauces from the vegetable garden

• Ricotta and spinach fillings, widespread across central Italy for ravioli and tortelli.
• Pumpkin fillings, especially in the north in autumn.
• Pesto, made from basil, pine nuts, olive oil and cheese, traditionally from Liguria.
• Simple sauces of courgettes, aubergines, peppers, wild greens or mushrooms, depending on the season.

Hidden meat and cheese questions

Vegetarians in Italy should know a few details. Many traditional sauces start with cured pork, such as guanciale or pancetta, or with meat stock. Parmigiano Reggiano and pecorino are made with animal rennet, which some strict vegetarians avoid, although many do not mind it. Anchovies appear in some dishes you would not expect. The simple solution is to ask clearly, using the word vegetariano, and to explain exactly what you avoid.

Roman vegetables suited to pasta

Rome’s seasonal produce gives plenty of vegetarian inspiration. Spring artichokes and broad beans, summer courgettes and tomatoes, autumn pumpkin and mushrooms and winter greens all find their way into pasta. Courgette flowers can add a delicate, slightly sweet note, while bitter greens such as chicory are usually balanced by garlic and chilli.

Getting a feel for fresh pasta

Whatever the filling, fresh pasta teaches a few lessons. A good dough is firm and smooth, not sticky. Thinner is not always better, because a sheet that is too thin can tear when filled. Pasta should be cooked in plenty of salted water and finished in its sauce, not rinsed. And fresh pasta is at its peak when eaten soon after cooking, while its texture is still springy.

Filled pasta deserves a few extra notes. Seal the edges firmly and press out trapped air so that the parcels do not burst in the water. Keep fillings fairly dry, since moist ricotta or spinach that has not been squeezed out will leak. A simple sauce of melted butter and sage, or a light tomato sauce, lets the filling speak without competing with it.

Rome is easy for vegetarians. Pizza marinara and margherita, fried vegetables and plenty of salads and grilled vegetables are widely available. Look for contorni, the side dishes, which often make an excellent meal on their own. Legume-based dishes such as chickpea or bean soups are common in cooler months, though some are finished with pork, so check before ordering. Antipasti counters in Roman trattorias frequently offer roasted peppers, aubergines, marinated mushrooms and sautéed greens, which are easy to combine into a full plate.